UN calls on Africa to boost local cotton processing as synthetic fibers take over global market

AFRICA – African countries risk losing out in the global textile market if they continue exporting raw cotton instead of processing it locally, a new UN report has warned.

Synthetic fibers like polyester now account for nearly 75 percent of global fiber production, leaving cotton with just a 20 percent share.

This shift poses serious risks for African countries that still rely heavily on exporting raw cotton, a product often referred to as “white gold.”

The United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) has released a report urging African governments to rethink their approach. The report recommends that countries move away from raw cotton exports and instead build local industries that spin, weave, and manufacture garments from the cotton grown in their own fields.

“Countries that continue exporting raw cotton will struggle to stay competitive in the current market,” the report states. “Synthetic fibers dominate the yarn and fabric trade, accounting for up to 70 percent of its value. This is largely due to lower production costs compared to cotton.”

While Africa produces less than 5 percent of the world’s cotton, it makes up about 15 percent of global raw cotton exports. UNCTAD argues this trade imbalance highlights the missed opportunity for African countries to increase domestic earnings and create jobs through processing.

The report points out that African countries can take advantage of their cotton production by improving energy access, transport infrastructure, and technical training. These improvements are necessary to build up spinning and garment production sectors.

“To grow the textile sector, countries must support private investment and focus on skill development,” the report says. “This includes reliable power, better roads, and training programs for workers in fiber and textile production.”

The strategy is already gaining ground in places like Ethiopia and Benin, where local cotton is being processed domestically. Foreign investors, together with government support, have helped jumpstart these efforts.

Africa’s cotton market is currently valued at 6.36 billion dollars and is expected to reach 8.08 billion dollars by 2030. Most of this cotton is grown by smallholder farmers, who often handpick the crop. This practice helps maintain high quality.

The main buyers of African cotton include Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, and Malaysia. But the continent has yet to fully benefit from the cotton it produces.

On the sustainability front, genetically modified cotton is now permitted in South Africa, Sudan, and Burkina Faso. Fairtrade Africa is also working with local farmers to support ethical sourcing and improve prices at the farm level.

UNCTAD’s report sends a clear message: if African countries want to gain more from their cotton industries, they must invest in local processing now.

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